"Hold back the dogs!" is how the Mongolian greeting translates into English. By the look of them, "Hold back the wolves" seems more appropriate. It is tradition in Mongolia to take in strangers. A good policy when the average winter night is 30 below.

As guests we learn about Mongolian etiquette - When entering a ger, the tent like structure of these nomadic people, men must go to the left, women to the right; to immediately shake hands with anyone if you step on their foot; to respect your host's shrine by not facing you back towards it.

And most importantly, since they do not have much, accept everything your host offers you. After a couple of days of fatty mutton, fermented mare's milk, horse ribs, and shots of vodka the size of a coffee mug, this becomes a difficult thing to do.